Discovering Cuba: An Unforgettable Journey Through Trinidad and Havana
In the vibrant dawn of January 2017, my best friend Paige and I embarked on an extraordinary adventure to Cuba, a nation steeped in rich history, pulsating culture, and breathtaking beauty. This journey, a long-held dream, unfolded into a tapestry of vivid memories, delicious flavors, and heartwarming encounters. Prepare to delve into a comprehensive recap of our Cuban escapade, filled with travel insights, culinary delights, and the sheer joy of exploration. While this post focuses purely on our travel experiences, it aims to provide a vivid sense of the magic we discovered.
Our Cuban odyssey began on the evening of New Year’s Day. We navigated the Tijuana Airport, caught a flight to Mexico City, secured our essential Cuban visas, and then boarded our final flight to Havana. The moment we stepped off the plane, a palpable shift in atmosphere enveloped us. The airport hummed with activity, a bustling gateway to a truly unique destination. Our first order of business was to navigate Cuba’s distinctive monetary system. The country operates with two currencies: the CUC (Cuban Convertible Peso) and the CUP (Cuban Peso). While the CUP is primarily for Cuban citizens, tourists predominantly use the CUC, which, conveniently, holds an equivalent value to the US dollar. This simplified transactions immensely, eliminating the need for constant mental conversions and allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the shopping and dining experiences without monetary confusion.
A crucial tip for American travelers: we wisely exchanged enough Euros to last our entire trip prior to departure. The US dollar is subject to a 10% tax in Cuba, making Euros a more economical choice. This foresight proved invaluable. Furthermore, to ensure a seamless arrival, we had pre-booked a private driver online through YotellevoCuba. Our initial destination was Trinidad, a picturesque beach town nestled four hours southeast of Havana. After approximately 16 hours of travel, punctuated by various delays, the thought of negotiating transport in Spanish upon arrival was daunting. Our driver, a kind gentleman named Manuel, greeted us with a warm smile and a classic vintage blue Chevrolet, instantly making our long journey more comfortable and stress-free. The convenience of a pre-arranged transfer cannot be overstated after such extensive travel.
We reached our charming Airbnb in Trinidad around 8:15 PM, where our welcoming hosts awaited us. Our adorable turquoise room, meticulously prepared, promised a restful night. Utterly exhausted from the day’s travels, we gratefully succumbed to sleep, eager for the adventures that lay ahead.
Trinidad: A Coastal Gem and Historical Heart
Our first full day in Trinidad dawned bright and clear, beckoning us to explore. We headed straight for Playa Ancon, a stunning beach just a 15-minute drive from the city center. The soft sand underfoot, the gentle lapping of waves, and the tranquil atmosphere immediately melted away any lingering travel fatigue. We spent the morning strolling along the shore, reveling in the serene coastal beauty. The highlight, however, was an exhilarating snorkeling excursion over a vibrant coral reef. For just $10 each, we enjoyed an hour of underwater exploration, witnessing a mesmerizing array of marine life in the crystal-clear waters. The beauty beneath the surface was truly captivating, a world teeming with colorful fish and intricate coral formations. Afterward, we indulged in a delectable beachside lunch featuring fresh, succulent shrimp, flaky white fish, and savory rice – a perfect example of Cuba’s simple yet profoundly flavorful cuisine. It was a flawless, relaxing introduction to the natural splendor of Trinidad.
Paige, a seasoned SCUBA diver with certifications from across the globe, effortlessly captured charming underwater photographs. My attempts, on the other hand, involved more flailing than finesse, a testament to her aquatic grace versus my enthusiastic but less elegant approach to staying submerged!
That evening, we ventured into the heart of Trinidad, exploring its charming streets before settling down for dinner at El Dorado. Recommended by several locals, the restaurant offered a taste of authentic Cuban flavors. We savored traditional Ropa Vieja, tender Chicken with Garlic Sauce, and Paige’s delightful discovery, boletas de queso – irresistible cheesy balls. Unfortunately, our beautiful rooftop terrace seating, while atmospherically dim, made photography impossible, so those culinary memories remain vividly etched only in our minds.
The subsequent two days were dedicated to a deeper immersion into Trinidad’s captivating streets and vibrant culture. The town is a living museum, its colonial architecture perfectly preserved, with cobblestone streets winding past brightly painted houses. It was a photographer’s dream, and I accumulated a vast collection of images capturing its unique essence.
Amidst the iconic vintage cars that define Cuba’s streetscape, we frequently encountered horse-drawn buggies, a charming anachronism that added to the town’s rustic allure. These traditional modes of transport were not confined to the city limits; we often saw them even on the main highways, a testament to a lifestyle that gracefully blends past and present.
One of our favorite discoveries was Restaurante Rintintin, a fantastic rooftop bar. While we didn’t dine there, we enjoyed several refreshing drinks – Paige’s Trinidad Colonial underwent a surprising color transformation after mixing – and soaked in the lively atmosphere provided by a live band. The experience was made even more memorable when we struck up a conversation with the couple at the next table, who, by an astonishing coincidence, hailed from the same small part of San Diego as us. It truly is a small world!
As a devoted enthusiast of pottery, stumbling upon a particular artisan shop was one of the absolute highlights of my trip. The first time we visited, I limited myself to a few small bowls, primarily for food photography. However, I couldn’t stop talking about the exquisite craftsmanship, so Paige, recognizing my enchantment, insisted we locate it again. This second visit allowed me to acquire a beautiful collection of vases, which now adorn my home, filled with dried flowers, a constant reminder of Trinidad’s artistic spirit. Although I regrettably cannot recall the name of this charming establishment, a thorough exploration of Trinidad’s winding streets is sure to lead you to its treasures. We found it twice, after all, and the owner was incredibly sweet and welcoming!
For an afternoon pick-me-up, we paused at La Redacción, an incredibly charming restaurant. The iced coffee here was more akin to a divine milkshake, a truly heavenly concoction. I vividly recall wishing I had captured a photograph of their bathroom – an unusually spacious, vintage-styled room that was surprisingly beautiful. For the curious, I recommend browsing their images on TripAdvisor.
Trinidad’s streets are a kaleidoscope of color, with vibrant houses and an abundance of lush greenery. I was particularly captivated by a cactus artfully weaving its way through a doorway, a natural fusion of architecture and plant life.
Our ascent to the Bell Tower in Trinidad offered a spectacular panoramic vista. From the top, the town unfurled beneath us in a glorious display of color and history, providing an unparalleled perspective of this enchanting Cuban gem.
Just a few doors down from our accommodation was an adorable fruit and vegetable stand. Though I never managed to capture it in full operation, it offered a glimpse into local life. The bustling fruit and vegetable markets in Havana would later provide an even deeper insight into Cuba’s unique approach to fresh produce distribution.
A particularly striking scene captured the essence of Cuba’s fascinating juxtapositions: a vintage car, a motorbike cart, and a horse-drawn buggy alongside a newer government taxi, all in front of a beautifully restored building standing beside a crumbling one. This image perfectly encapsulates the island’s captivating blend of resilience, tradition, and evolving modernity.
Another culinary favorite was the adorable restaurant Los Conspiradores, so delightful that we visited twice within a few hours! Located conveniently next to Trinidad’s main steps, it boasts a gorgeous bougainvillea canopy, creating an enchanting dining atmosphere. My hunger was so intense that I devoured an utterly amazing lobster pasta before I could even think of a photo, but I did manage to capture a shot of the delicious complimentary starter: tomate y pan, or bread with fresh tomatoes.
The vibrant atmosphere at Los Conspiradores was further enhanced by a super fun live band. Our second visit was dedicated to enjoying a round of refreshing drinks – a classic daiquiri for Paige and a wonderfully fresh pineapple juice for me.
It was charming to observe Cuban students in their uniforms, which they wear through high school. Seeing all the school children in their neat attire added another layer of cultural immersion to our Trinidad experience.
The main square of Trinidad, particularly as the sun began its descent, transformed into a gorgeously colorful spectacle, bathed in the warm hues of twilight. It was a perfect place to witness the town’s daily rhythm unfold.
The Casa de la Música served as a central hub, attracting locals and tourists alike who congregated on its steps throughout the day, primarily drawn by the elusive WiFi connectivity (we struggled to find internet cards in Havana, making these spots precious). By night, the steps came alive with dancing and music, a true celebration of Cuban spirit.
On our final day in Trinidad, seeking a change of scenery, we ventured out of the city for a hiking excursion. Having read extensively about Topes de Collantes, a beautiful natural park close to Trinidad, we decided on the El Cubano hike. This particular trail promised a magnificent waterfall at its conclusion, complete with a natural pool perfect for swimming. The experience was nothing short of surreal – both the invigorating hike through lush landscapes and the breathtaking waterfall itself. This adventure unequivocally became one of my favorite highlights of the entire trip. If your travels take you to Trinidad, I wholeheartedly recommend experiencing the natural wonders of Topes de Collantes.
Just gaze upon that pristine water! How could anyone resist a swim in such an inviting cascade? We were so enchanted that we genuinely didn’t want to leave its refreshing embrace.
Havana: Echoes of History and Culinary Delights
The following day, we shared a taxi with two other travelers for the scenic, yet lengthy, drive back to Havana. Upon arriving, we were dropped off at our Airbnb and took a brief stroll along the iconic Malecón, Havana’s famous seafront promenade. Unfortunately, the day took an unexpected turn when Paige began to experience food poisoning. After a quick, solo dinner for me, as Paige was unable to eat, we opted for a quiet night in at our Airbnb, hoping for her swift recovery.
Speaking of our Airbnb, it was an absolute delight! We had secured an amazing two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment on the top floor of a Havana apartment building, granting us complete privacy. For a nominal extra charge of $5, we were treated to a magnificent breakfast each morning, lovingly prepared by Ephraim, the kindest man imaginable. He presented us with exquisite fruit platters, perfectly cooked eggs, fresh bread, incredibly refreshing juices (a true highlight!), robust Cuban coffee, and on some mornings, special Cuban breakfast delicacies. Ephraim, fluent in English, was an invaluable resource, patiently answering all our questions about Cuba and offering insightful recommendations for things to see and do.
One particular Cuban breakfast specialty that Ephraim prepared stood out – a large fruit salad suspended in a delicious, frothy juice. I was utterly obsessed with this unique and refreshing dish, though I can’t recall its name. The flavors were extraordinary! Moreover, a notable observation: the bananas in Cuba are remarkably sweeter and more delicious than those typically found elsewhere.
Our second day in Havana remained somewhat low-key, as Paige was still not feeling entirely well. To explore the city without overexertion, we opted for one of the convenient hop-on, hop-off tour buses, which surprisingly allowed us to cover a significant portion of the city’s highlights. We passed by the monumental Plaza de la Revolución, a square instantly recognizable as the venue for Fidel Castro’s historic speeches. Imagining the thousands of people gathered there truly conveyed the immense historical weight of the site. The tour offered a fantastic overview, providing glimpses of Havana’s diverse architecture and vibrant street life.
Following our bus tour, we made our way to Almacenes San José, a vibrant craft market situated on the harbor. This recommendation came from a fellow traveler we met on the steps of Casa de la Música in Trinidad. I confess, I became so engrossed in browsing and purchasing unique knick-knacks and souvenirs that I neglected to take any photographs! Nevertheless, I left with a generously filled bag of treasures, each item a tangible reminder of Cuba’s artistic spirit.
That evening, we opted for another relaxed night. We returned to our Airbnb early, enjoying a simple dinner of snacks, as Paige continued her recovery. The day had also brought a torrential downpour while we were at the market, so being back indoors and dry was a welcome relief.
The following day brought immense relief as Paige finally felt better – just in time for our highly anticipated lunch reservations at La Guarida! This establishment came with an emphatic “must-do” recommendation from everyone we spoke to, and it unequivocally lived up to its stellar reputation. La Guarida is renowned for hosting a galaxy of famous personalities who visit Havana, and its culinary offerings proved to be nothing short of spectacular.
The approach to La Guarida is an experience in itself. As you enter the building, it doesn’t immediately suggest a fancy restaurant. The lower levels of the once-grand mansion show signs of charming decay, yet it’s clear that this was, at one point, an extraordinarily beautiful and stately residence.
We ascended to the top floor, where the restaurant awaited, and happily settled in for lunch. The surroundings were ornately and uniquely decorated, a feast for the eyes. Walls adorned with photographs of famous celebrities and politicians who had previously graced its tables, alongside stunning stained-glass windows and distinctive artwork, contributed to an ambiance that was both elegant and deeply evocative.
Our meal was absolutely divine! We began by sharing a delectable duck salad, accompanied by an incredibly crispy and outrageously flavorful piece of duck. The accompanying yellow sauce, tangy and scrumptious, perfectly cut through the richness of the duck, creating a harmonious flavor profile.
For my main course, I had set my heart on the oxtail risotto, and was utterly devastated to learn it had sold out for the day – and at lunch, no less! Instead, I opted for the Lobster with Rice dish, and while it wasn’t my initial choice, it certainly did not disappoint. The flavors were exquisite, a testament to Cuban seafood.
However, I believe Paige’s Honey-Glazed Chicken may have even surpassed my dish in deliciousness! The chicken was cooked to perfection, boasting crispy skin and an outrageously flavorful sauce that struck a beautiful balance of sweetness and tang, making every bite thoroughly enjoyable.
We concluded our magnificent meal with a deconstructed lemon almond pie, a dessert we had been eyeing with longing at a neighboring table throughout our lunch. It was as visually stunning as it was delicious, its bright, zesty flavors now inspiring me to experiment with lemon meringue desserts in my own kitchen.
Even the bathroom at La Guarida was a work of art, beautiful and uniquely designed, reflecting the restaurant’s overall aesthetic.
Completely satiated after our lavish meal, we decided a long walk was in order. We spent the remainder of the afternoon wandering the captivating streets of Havana until dusk settled over the city. Along our route, we paused by the famous La Floridita.
Translating to “Little Florida,” La Floridita is globally renowned for its daiquiris and for being a favored haunt of the legendary Ernest Hemingway. We ventured inside, only to find it teeming with fellow tourists. The sheer crowd and the prospect of a lengthy wait for a cocktail led us to decide it might be a tad overrated. We opted instead to bail and explore a bar a few doors down the street. Luckily, we found equally delicious daiquiris in a much more relaxed setting. Still comfortably full from our indulgent lunch, we skipped dinner that night, preferring to head home for a well-deserved night’s sleep.
The following day marked our last full day in Havana, a bittersweet realization. We rose early, eager to maximize our remaining time, and headed straight for Plaza Vieja in Old Havana. My primary motivation for this visit was a burning desire to explore the Museo de Chocolate – the chocolate museum! It turned out to be less of a traditional museum and more of a delightful café, but the experience, and the wait in line, was entirely worth it.
The hot chocolate served was incredibly thick, almost like drinking pure chocolate ganache (which it likely was), a truly decadent treat. Watching the chocolatiers meticulously craft their creations in the glass-enclosed kitchen was fascinating and added to the immersive experience.
With our bellies pleasantly full of warm chocolate, we strolled through the historic Plaza Vieja, admiring its colonial architecture and vibrant atmosphere, before continuing our wanderings through the charming streets of the Old City.
Our next stop was the Museo de la Revolución, housed within the former Presidential Palace. It was a profound experience to delve into the history of the Cuban Revolution within a building that had witnessed so many pivotal moments. The palace itself, once grandly decorated by Tiffany’s of New York, boasted architectural splendor, with the Hall of Mirrors being particularly beautiful, even though parts of it were under construction during our visit.
After the Museo, we journeyed back to Old Havana to visit the Havana Club Rum Factory. The museum component was unfortunately closing just as we arrived, so we headed directly to the bar to sample a glass of 20-year-old rum. Or rather, Paige enjoyed a glass. I took a polite sip of hers, snapped a quick photo, and promptly returned it. Straight rum, aged or not, is simply not to my taste! My expression after that sip was certainly not the smiling one captured in the photo.
Our journey continued to the iconic Hotel Nacional, where we planned to enjoy a drink on its elegant terrace. However, our visit took an unexpected historical turn when we discovered and explored the bunkers beneath the hotel – the very same bunkers where nuclear weapons were reportedly stored during the Cuban Missile Crisis. Being down there was more than a little surreal; the palpable sense of history was almost overwhelming. The Hotel Nacional itself is a grand, beautiful building situated majestically on the water, making its connection to such an ominous chapter in US-Cuban relations all the more bizarre.
While at the Hotel Nacional, we also enjoyed some excellent Cuban coffee and purchased a cigar, which, amusingly, met an untimely demise in Paige’s purse before we ever got a chance to smoke it. Oops!
Following our historical detour, we made a beeline for Burner Brothers Bakery, a place Paige had seen featured on the TV show “The Profit.” Naturally, I couldn’t visit Cuba without experiencing at least one local bakery, and this stop proved to be an exceptionally good choice.
Though my photographs didn’t fully capture their splendor, our selections were truly magnificent. I craved something with guava, so we indulged in the Guava Cheesecake. Its luxuriously smooth texture was perfectly complemented by a tart guava jam topping – a cheesecake so exquisite it has inspired me to attempt a recreation as soon as I can source fresh guavas. We also savored a dulce de leche-filled profiterole – and let me tell you, it was absolutely heavenly! Really, can dulce de leche ever go wrong? Just look at how generously filled and utterly delicious it appeared. Our third choice, though not explicitly pictured, was a small lemon tart. This tart was perfection itself. I often find lemon desserts too sweet without enough tartness, but the curd in this particular tart was intensely zesty, providing an ideal flavor counterpoint to the sweet meringue crowning it. We left feeling utterly stuffed and incredibly happy. It genuinely feels impossible to make a wrong choice here; everything we sampled was pastry perfection!
The bakery, it turned out, was surprisingly close to our Airbnb – a fact we were almost grateful not to have known earlier in the trip, or we might have found ourselves there daily! We leisurely walked back to prepare for our dinner reservations at El Cocinero.
El Cocinero came with glowing recommendations, particularly because it’s situated atop Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) – a sprawling warehouse space ingeniously transformed into a Berlin-esque labyrinth of art galleries, bars, music rooms, movie theaters, dance spaces, and restaurants. We were absolutely desperate to experience FAC, but to our immense disappointment, it was closed for renovations throughout our entire visit. This unfortunate timing has firmly placed another trip to Havana on my future itinerary, solely to explore this cultural phenomenon!
Despite missing the opportunity to visit Fábrica de Arte afterward, El Cocinero itself was truly amazing and arguably my favorite meal of the entire trip. I was so engrossed in devouring every bite that I completely forgot to photograph our food, but oh my goodness! We started with a Duck Bellini, essentially a delicate crepe enveloping tender pulled duck, served with a creamy, yogurt-based sauce. Eating it felt like being in culinary heaven. We also enjoyed a side salad bursting with fresh, flavorful ingredients. And, of course, we savored our final, perfectly mixed mojitos.
For our main course, we both opted for the filet mignon, which certainly did not disappoint – cooked to perfection and utterly tender. To cap off this incredible dining experience, we demolished a slice of Frozen Chocolate Pie. Rest assured, I am already mentally recreating this dessert for the blog!
That final night, we slept soundly, and the next morning, we packed our bags, ready for departure. Before breakfast, we took one last stroll around Vedado, the charming neighborhood where we had been staying. During our walk, we stumbled upon what could be described as the Cuban version of a farmer’s market:
Given that Cubans still receive government food rations, which notably exclude fruits and vegetables, fresh produce is technically considered black market goods. These vital items are sold by the very people who grow them, often found on the sides of roads, or ingeniously, as captured in one of my photos, from the back of a car. While not perfectly clear in my image, the backseat of that particular blue car was entirely crammed with fresh lettuce, a testament to local ingenuity and resourcefulness.
We returned to our Airbnb for our final breakfast – delicious Cuban pancakes made with corn. These were not sweet, but incredibly flavorful, especially with a drizzle of honey. They were sheer perfection. I cannot express enough gratitude to Ephraim for all the delicious Cuban food he prepared for us and introduced us to. I only wish I knew how to recreate it all, or at the very least, recall the names of every delightful dish.
As our car wove back through the bustling streets of Havana towards the airport, a profound sense of wonder settled over me. Our trip had been an immersive tapestry of rich culture, exquisite food, and encounters with some of the friendliest, most welcoming people I have ever met. Every individual we encountered in Cuba exuded warmth and hospitality, making our journey truly special. Not once did we feel unsafe, scared, or threatened. Cuba is a gorgeous country, blessed with amazing people and an incredibly fascinating history. If you are contemplating a visit, I cannot recommend it highly enough. I’ve already enthusiastically urged my family to go, and if they do, I’ll be right there with them, ready to experience its magic once more.
Should you have any questions about planning your own Cuban adventure, please feel free to ask in the comments section below! Phew – immense respect if you’ve made it through this extensive post; I know it was a long one. We’ll be back to our regularly scheduled recipes next Monday!